San Juan’s Barreal and a mezcla de vida Cordobesa
Barreal and the San Juan Province
People always seem surprised at first when I tell them that I travel alone quite a bit. But really, it’s usually the best to go the way I see. I mean, what better way to meet the people? Without fail, every trip I’ve taken, whether here in South America or during my time in Central America, has always brought with it the most interesting people and the greatest opportunities that may never have come were I traveling in a group. And so, this trip was no different except that the people to meet were few and far between. I had been hearing about this remote, dreamlike little town of in the middle of the Calingasta Valley for a while and was determined to find my way there.
The trip began in my neighborhood with a quick stop at “Pollo al asado” to eat the best piece of chicken I’ve ever sunk my teeth into and then onto the bus terminal…
Soon the scenery began to change from the rolling hills of Cordoba to the endless plains that lie between the neighboring provinces, and finally giving way to the magnificent and at the same time imposing site of the Andes just beyond the city of San Juan. As we made our way deeper into the valley, little towns began to appear and then disappear just as quickly, each making me wish for all the world that I could let myself stop for a day or two. But Barreal was calling to me and the four days I had would never be enough to experience all there was discover in Calingasta.
After 16 hours in the bus I finally reached my destination and was every bit awestruck by this secluded paradise as I had imagined; as much by tranquility of its people as by its idyllic, serene location between the snow capped Andes mountains and the wrinkled, multicolored cordillera … suffice it to say I’m putting it high on my list of places to live one day.
I spent the first day getting to know the town a little better and knew that I was well overdo for some time to think, pray and play my guitar. Barreal proved to be the perfect place to do so and must have been one of the most relaxing, peaceful places on the earth. Unlike in Cordoba, the people of Barreal religiously practice and respect their “siesta” time enough to make a visitor passing through wonder if the town hadn’t been deserted and then left to the dogs that wander its dusty streets. I found a small place to stay and met the only two travelers in the area, Hugo from France and Rique from Germany. Don Pablo was the owner of the hostel and had been a long time mountaineer; leading climbing expeditions for numerous years and amassing quite a list of peaks he’d conquered.
It wasn’t long before I was itching to hike the Cordillera and see what I could find.
My final day in Barreal I met up with Hugo and hiked some while listening to his fascinating story of how he to came to Argentina with the goal of meeting his father for the first time. The interesting part is that when Hugo called his dad, pops had no idea that he had a son. Hmmm, wouldn’t that be quite the interesting phone conversation…
Here with Hugo from France and Rique from Germany
Click below to hear the conversation I had with Hugo about meeting his dad…
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Legend of the Difunta Correa
At three then next morning I left for the city of San Juan, hoping to make it in time to catch a bus to the “Valle de la Luna.” The bus left at 7:30 a.m. and as you can guess, I arrived to the terminal at 7:35. Well, being that my bus for Cordoba wasn’t going to leave until 11:00 that night, I decided to see what the area had to offer. What I came across must be one of the most fascinating cultural phenomena in Argentina…a shrine in the middle of the desert to the saint “Difunta Correa.” According to legend, during the Argentina civil war in 1842, a woman by the name of Deolinda Correa began following her husband’s battalion through the desert with her baby boy in her arms. The desert heat and lack of food and water eventually brought Deolinda to her death. However, when her body was found days later, her little boy was alive, still feeding from his mother’s breast. The people saw this as a miracle and built a shrine at spot of her death. Even up to the present time thousands upon thousands make the pilgrimage to the site asking for a miracle and offering a bottle of water to quench her still roaming soul’s thirst.
The shrine is built on a hill and over the years has become completely saturated with miniature houses, license plates, letters, candles and other objects, all expressing thanks and petitions to the Difunta Correa for miracles in their lives.
I soon met several elderly ladies who were there making their regular journey to the site. hey thoroughly and eagerly informed me all about the Difunta Correa. One came every three months because she had made a promise to the Difunta. She told me that if you make a promise to the Difunta and then don’t fulfill it, she will take away what is most precious to you.
You can hear her story below…
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San Juan
After checking out the shrine, I went back to San Juan until my bus left for Cordoba…
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The Revolutionary Cordobes
What distinguishes the Cordobes, or Argentines in general from the other countries I’ve been in? Well, while you certainly find discontent in other countries, you don’t find quite the affinity for public protest that you find here. These people are pretty darn persistent. And of all places that I could have landed in Argentina, Cordoba has got to be the most active in making their voice heard. I think one of my most marked memories of downtown Cordoba will be sitting in history class learning about about past historic protests and demonstrations that took place in Cordoba and at the same time hearing bombs, chants, and demonstrators marching through the streets outside the school walls…every singe day. The other day there was a march through the city in protest of an increase in wages that had recently been given to some local bankers. Then I saw on the T.V. the other day that students had stormed the university in objection to an increase in tuition. A little while back the main road between Cordoba and Buenos Aires had been cut off by farmers and their tractors, obviously causing a bit of ruckus among the truckers…
And then two days ago was the 40th anniversary of “El Cordobaso” in which thousands of students and blue collar workers flooded the streets in disapproval of the government and the low wages given to the workers. The police and military tried to put down the movement and killed a guy in the process. You can imagine what happened next. The mob literally took portions of the city hostage until the military forces where able to break through the ranks of zealous university students and fiery workers. Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera on me when the people took to the streets in remembrance and in a continued fight for the rights of the working class the other night. I did have my recorder though and managed to capture a bit of the action…
Click below to hear…
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The recording below is of one of the leaders giving a speech to the “manifestantes”
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Here’s some thoughts from a couple of my friends on the manifestations that went on here on the 24th of March remembering the end of the countries last military government..
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Unos amigos
The people I meet here in Argentina continuously amaze me with the generosity they show and the open arms that they are so accustomed to extend without restraint. The couple below, Wendy and Martin, is from Santiago del Estero, a city in northern Argentina and I’ll be visiting them on my way to Bolivia next month. One thing that I try to do whenever possible (and whenever it’s not too awkward) is ask the people I meet to give a short message so I can remember them. Click below to hear a few of them…
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Cordoba – Cultural Capital of the Americas?
Ehh…well, at least according to Lonely Planet it is. Whether Cordoba takes the crown or not is irrelevant in my book though because it definitely has more culture than any other city I’ve ever been in. Spend a day or two roaming its streets and without a doubt you’ll leave feeling like you’ve jumped back in time a few hundred years if be not left feeling a bit more educated in the process. Numerous tango concerts, choirs, philharmonic orchestras, or theatrical performances happen every week and all at about ¼ of what you would pay in the U.S. Here are a few pictures, videos and recordings the concerts I’ve been to recently…
Click to hear some of the tango music from the night…
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Here’s part of song…
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La Manzana Jesuitica
The classes that I am taking at the Catholic University are amazing and have been a huge part in making Argentina’s history and culture really come to life for me. One class I am enrolled in is called “Historia de la Cultura” (Cultural History) and tends to have a bend toward Latin American cultural history. Every other Friday we as a class head to one of the numerous museums here in Cordoba. An important part of Córdoba’s history is wrapped up in the Jesuit missionaries who migrated here from Spain at the end of the 17th century and set up schools, churches, and farms all over the southern half of the continent. You could say that Cordoba was somewhat of a capital city for these missionaries where they built numerous cathedrals, schools and the “Manzana Jesuitica,” an enormous complex in the center of Cordoba that includes a cathedral, a university, a primary school and the residence of the Jesuits. Here’s a little background on the Jesuits that I wrote up for a class por si te interesa…
La orden de la Compañía de Jesús, fundado por Francisco de Loyola, se formo en Paris en el año 1534 y vino para Córdoba en 1599 con el propósito de evangelizar a la población y educar a la juventud. La orden se estableció en la propiedad cedida por el cabildo de Córdoba que llegaría a llamarse “la manzana jesuítica,” en la cual se fundarían la Capilla doméstica, la Iglesia de la Compañía, la Universidad y el Colegio Monserrat. Esta orden causo un gran impacto en la cultura y sociedad durante los casi doscientos años que estuvieron en la ciudad. Para poder mantener las instituciones educativas y las iglesias que los Jesuitas establecieron en Córdoba, se construyó un sistema de estancias en el interior de la provincia.
Como uno de los objetivos principales de los Jesuitas en Córdoba era la educación, cabe mencionar que ellos tuvieron un papel muy importante en la fundación de la primera universidad de la Argentina, la Universidad Nacional de Córdoba. Es la universidad más antigua del país y la cuarta más antigua de América.
Of course there are so many more great people in my classes, but here are some pictures of a few of them…
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Alta Gracia – La casa de Che y la Estancia Jesuitica
Alta Gracia, meaning high grace, must have gotten is name for the grace God had on the place by giving it the cleanest, most crisp air I’ve breathed in a while. Its so refreshing that “Che” Guevara’s parents thought it best for their asthmatic son to move here and live out his childhood. Located about 30 minutes from Cordoba, the towns claims to fame, aside from its pristine location in the mountains, is that it is home to one of the most elaborate and oldest Jesuit Estancias that were left by the Italian missionaries over 500 years ago. More recently, Alta Gracia has had a jump in its number of visitors stopping by to marvel at the childhood stomping grounds of the radical “Comandante Che Guevara.” A controversial life he lived for sure, but a truly revolutionary one none the less. The state Cuba finds itself in today (for better or worse) owes itself to “Che.” The socialist movement running rampant through all of Latin America tends to be permanently accompanied by flags, t-shirts, hats, and banners plastered with the stoic face of this Argentine folk hero. Even Fidel Castro and Hugo Chavez made a stop by the house to pay tribute (just to give you an idea of Che’s political stream, eh…) Well, being so close, Alta Gracia demanded a visit and so my Colombian friend Jonathan and I took the 30 minute bus ride to the famed little city…We met up with a friend from the university who lives in Alta Gracia and made our way to Che’s house.
Then we headed to the Estancia Jesuitica….
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Diving in head first…
I am finally beginning to feel like I am taking on the Cordobes life head on, with everything I’ve got. While I’ll always be a “foreigner” here, I think that I have never felt more a part of the daily life of the city. Lately, I have been realizing what an incredible place Cordoba really is and that were to live in another place, I would always be wishing I could visit Cordoba, wishing I could sit down outside of one its thousand cafes and drink a “mate” with a friend beneath the shadow of the Manzana Jesuitica Cathedral or pass the day reading in El Paseo del Buen Pastor amidst the hundreds of students that cover ever last inch of the park’s green grass. And so recently I have thrown myself completely into Cordoba, just to see what really lies beyond its touristic façade. If you care to join me, here’s what my last weekend looked like.
Friday
Tango
On Friday night I began the evening by going to a Tango lesson that the University offers weekly to its students. Far from making it the sophisticated, classy dance that it is meant to be, I ended up turning the dance into a clumsy and rigid march around the dance floor and considered myself lucky when I didn’t bump my dance partner into the other couples. Regardless, I gave it my best shot and am determined to at least make it through a song without stepping on someone’s toes or running into the other dancers…
Asado
After my attempt at Tango dancing, I worked my way through town to a friend’s apartment where we were going to have what’s called an “asado” on top of a 10 story apartment building. An “asado” is basically a barbecue on steroids; meat of all kinds, thick, juicy, and with the most amazing flavor you could imagine. It’s pretty typical here and Argentina can’t be fully experienced until you have been invited to an “asado.” Anyway, my friends from the “Hospederia” (I’ll explain that later) and I all met up on the roof of this apartment building with a clear sky above, a lively city spread out below and skyscrapers on all sides as the guys began to start up the fire.
Fiesta folklorica
Soon the guitar was broken out and Juan Manuel began to strike up one of Argentina’s folklore tunes. Just our luck, two of the girls there were folkloric dance instructors and I quickly jumped on the opportunity to learn some of the indigenous dances. Pepe, who is from the north, where Argentina largest indigenous population lives, jumped right in on the action and soon we were all dancing around the rooftop, building up an appetite for the feast that was to come. After putting down some of the best steak I have ever eaten, the eight of us sat around talking late into the night.
“Los Buscadores”
Before I go on, I need to explain how I know all these incredible people. One of the highlights of my life here in Cordoba is being part of the “buscadores,” a group of young people who meet every Tuesday night to pray for the city’s homeless and then to turn those prayers into action by taking food to the men in the streets. I found out about the group through a friend and joined up with them about two months ago. We meet at the homeless shelter called “La Hospederia,” split into two groups and then head to the “Peatonal” (pedestrian walk ways), outside the post office, and anywhere else the people sleep. Always welcoming us with smiles, we then get the chance to spend the next few hours sharing dinner and great conversations with the guys. Not only have I gotten the chance to make friendships with so many of these people on the streets, the other volunteers have become good friends too. Well, aside from getting together on Tuesday, the “buscadores” also meet once a month at someone’s house for an “asado.” (Hence the party of the roof!)
Saturday
“Musical” concert (if you can call it that)
Being that Cordoba was founded and built up mostly by the Jesuit missionaries from Spain who were expelled from the country back in the late eighteenth century, the most obvious feature of this colonial city in the high number of towering cathedrals and convents that seem to be on every street and bordering every plaza. A walk through the city is a history lesson in itself and its 18 museums and cultural centers are top class in presenting the city at its best. As I mentioned in a previous post, Cordoba has also been named “cultural capital of the Americas” and with good reason. On any given weekend night, two or three symphonies, operas, or plays are always being offered in one the cathedrals or ornately decorated music halls in “Nueva Cordoba.” Back to last Saturday; I made a point to see one of the symphonies and landed at a European contemporary classical music concert, only to be disappointed by some pretty terrible music (in my opinion anyway.) Maybe I’m not “open” or “modern” enough to appreciate the latest styles and maybe I’ll be “enlightened” one day and kick myself for my old fashion tastes, but for now I’m sticking to my idea of music as having at least a hint of melody and resonance. Click below to hear a bit…
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Asado al parilla ‘till your sick
After the concert, I hopped on the bus heading back to my neighborhood to meet up with my friend Juan Manuel (the folkloric guitarist) who had invited me to another “asado” and jam session. Once again, I met so many great Cordobes’ and feasted on yet another asado riquisimo!
The music never stops…
After eating we set up the instruments, playing and singing ‘till five in the morning. We then left for a boliche and the night ended for me around seven a.m. While I’m not usually up for the all-nighters, there is really no way to fully understand the Cordobes way of life by light of day alone. All, and I mean ALL those who are 30 and down come out of hiding in the late hours of the night and usually into the next morning. Here’s how is works here.
These Cordobes party likes there’s no tomorrow!
Previa- During the previa, which lasts from around 9 pm to 2 am, everyone meets up in someone’s house or at a park and usually feast on an asado, break out the guitars and pass the time catching up with everybody there.
La salida – Around 2:00 am is when the night actually begins. In other words, when the boliches open. The crowds move from the house to dance floor and absolutely pack out the dozens of boliches that are scattered throughout the city breaking it down until 6 am or so. A boliche can be instantly recognized from the street by the mass of students waiting outside to get into an overcrowded psychedelic light show accompanied by pounding beats and smooth talkin’ “chamulleros.”
After – As if the night wasn’t enough, these party animals then begin to migrate to the “after” boliches which open at 6 am and keep the music going ‘till 1 pm! For some, that means 16 hours straight of non-stop partying! I honestly have no idea how they do it, and on top of that how they do it 3 or 4 days of the week!
While I have to say it is not my style at all, I had to go one or two times to see what all this was about.
Sunday
I have found an amazing church that is full of college students, good music, solid preaching and plenty of opportunities to get involved. The first two months I was here, I felt pretty isolated and really needed to be part of a community of believers. Just at the time when I was becoming convinced that this kind of community didn’t exist here in Argentina, I stumbled on “Cristo Jesus,” and quickly met some really cool people who love God and are serious about their faith. I now go on Sunday nights to the main service and on Wednesday nights to meet up with the college age small groups.
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Pepe is part of “buscadores” group and a good friend of mine who invited me over for lunch the other day. (Not a bad chef either) He’s from a province called Jujuy in the north and has taught me plenty about the way of the “Norteno;” ranging from the different kinds of Andean folkloric music, to the customs, to the traditional indigenous dances. I figure a good way to end this post is with some clips that Pepe gave me of the “Carnaval” festival that happens each year in his home town.





































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































